Topical Ingredients to Pause Before Your Brow or Lip PMU Appointment

Why a “Product Pause” Matters


Permanent makeup is, quite literally, tattooing pigment into living tissue. Anything that thins the skin, accelerates cell turnover, or increases blood flow can lead to excessive bleeding, colour dilution, or patchy healing. A short break from certain actives lets the skin stabilise so pigment locks in cleanly and your results last.




Active Why It Interferes Minimum Time-Out Typical Products
Prescription retinoids
(tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene) 		Thins the outer skin layers, boosts vascularity 4 weeks Retin-A, Differin 0.3 %, Tazorac
OTC vitamin-A esters
(retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate) 		Milder than Rx but still speeds turnover 7–14 days iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex, No7 Restore & Renew Day Cream
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)
(glycolic, lactic, mandelic) 		Chemical exfoliation → sensitivity & micro-shedding 2 weeks Peel pads, “glow” toners, resurfacing serums
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA)
(salicylic) 		Penetrates oil, lifts pigment, dries skin 2 weeks Acne spot gels, clarifying cleansers
Poly-hydroxy acids & fruit enzymes Gentler but still disrupts stratum corneum 1–2 weeks PHA lotions, pumpkin enzyme masks
Benzoyl peroxide Oxidative, can bleach fresh pigment 1 week Acne creams, wash-off masks
High-dose niacinamide
(≥10 %) 		Flushes blood to the surface 1 week “Redness-reducing” serums
Prostaglandin lash/brow serums Increases micro-capillaries → more bleeding 4 weeks Latisse, RevitaBrow, GrandeBROW
Pro tip: Timelines above are minimums; extending the break by an extra week is never a bad idea—especially if your skin is sensitive.


Ingredient Deep-Dive


Retinoids


  • What they do: Accelerate cell renewal, stimulate collagen.
  • Why they matter: A thinner epidermis means the needle can enter too deeply or too easily, causing micro-tears and pigment blow-out.
  • When to restart: Wait until the treated area is fully re-epithelialised (≈ 10 days) and your artist confirms the skin has settled.


Chemical Exfoliants (AHA / BHA / PHA)


  • What they do: Dissolve bonds between dead cells for a smoother surface.
  • Why they matter: Freshly exfoliated skin can’t hold pigment evenly; the acid also stings on broken surface.
  • When to restart: Begin on alternate nights at least two weeks after any touch-up; stay 1 cm away from fresh pigment for the first month.


Benzoyl Peroxide & High-Dose Niacinamide

  • What they do: Treat acne and reduce inflammation but can cause dryness or flushing.
  • Why they matter: Dry, irritated skin heals slower; niacinamide flush can spread pigment.
  • When to restart: One week post-touch-up, provided no scabbing remains.


Lash & Brow Growth Serums

  • What they do: Use prostaglandin analogues to keep hairs in anagen phase.
  • Why they matter: Increased blood flow = more bleeding during PMU → colour loss.
  • When to restart: Four weeks after your final session.


How to Plan Your Skincare Timeline


  1. Mark your procedure date on the calendar.
  2. Count backwards using the table’s time-outs.
  3. Set reminders (phone alerts work great) to shelve each product on time.
  4. Substitute with “bland” skincare—think fragrance-free creams, gentle cleansers, and broad-spectrum SPF.
  5. Bring your product list to the consultation; your artist can spot any hidden actives you might miss.


Safe Substitutes to Keep Skin Happy


  • Hyaluronic acid serums for lightweight hydration.
  • Ceramide-rich creams to reinforce barrier strength.
  • Non-nano physical sunscreens (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide).
  • Mild antioxidants like panthenol or allantoin (avoid high-percentage vitamin C if your skin is reactive).


Final Check: Day-Of Appointment


  • Arrive with clean, makeup-free skin—no moisturiser, no SPF.
  • Skip coffee, alcohol, and ibuprofen for 24 hours; they can thin blood.
  • If you’re prone to cold sores and having lip PMU, start prophylactic antivirals 2–3 days prior (per your doctor’s instructions).


Aftercare Snapshot


Once your artist gives the green light (usually 10–14 days post-procedure):



  1. Reintroduce one active at a time every other night.
  2. Monitor for redness or tingling; pull back if irritation appears.
  3. Keep retinoids at least one fingertip away from fresh pigment for the first month to avoid premature fading.


Need a personalised plan? Book a free 10-minute consult with our Ellebrow team, and we’ll map out a tailored prep schedule so your PMU results look flawless and stay vibrant.



Always check ingredient decks at purchase—brands reformulate without notice. When in doubt, pause longer and ask your technician or dermatologist.