Topical Ingredients to Pause Before Your Brow or Lip PMU Appointment

Why a “Product Pause” Matters


Permanent makeup is, quite literally, tattooing pigment into living tissue. Anything that thins the skin, accelerates cell turnover, or increases blood flow can lead to excessive bleeding, colour dilution, or patchy healing. A short break from certain actives lets the skin stabilise so pigment locks in cleanly and your results last.




Active Why It Interferes Minimum Time-Out Typical Products
Prescription retinoids
(tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene) 		Thins the outer skin layers, boosts vascularity 4 weeks Retin-A, Differin 0.3 %, Tazorac
OTC vitamin-A esters
(retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate) 		Milder than Rx but still speeds turnover 7–14 days iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex, No7 Restore & Renew Day Cream
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)
(glycolic, lactic, mandelic) 		Chemical exfoliation → sensitivity & micro-shedding 2 weeks Peel pads, “glow” toners, resurfacing serums
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA)
(salicylic) 		Penetrates oil, lifts pigment, dries skin 2 weeks Acne spot gels, clarifying cleansers
Poly-hydroxy acids & fruit enzymes Gentler but still disrupts stratum corneum 1–2 weeks PHA lotions, pumpkin enzyme masks
Benzoyl peroxide Oxidative, can bleach fresh pigment 1 week Acne creams, wash-off masks
High-dose niacinamide
(≥10 %) 		Flushes blood to the surface 1 week “Redness-reducing” serums
Prostaglandin lash/brow serums Increases micro-capillaries → more bleeding 4 weeks Latisse, RevitaBrow, GrandeBROW

Pro tip: Timelines above are minimums; extending the break by an extra week is never a bad idea—especially if your skin is sensitive.




Retinol vs. retinyl esters (quick clarification)

Many PMU pre-care checklists say to pause “retinoids,” but not all vitamin A ingredients act the same in skin. Read our guide on retinol vs retinyl esters for PMU to understand why active retinol products are typically paused, while low-level retinyl esters in basic moisturizers are often treated differently.

Ingredient Deep-Dive


Retinoids


What they do:


Increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production by accelerating skin renewal.


Why they matter for PMU:


Faster turnover can thin the stratum corneum, making skin more reactive during permanent makeup. This may allow the needle to enter too easily, increasing the risk of excess bleeding, micro-tearing, and uneven pigment retention or blow-out.


Important clarification:


Not all vitamin A ingredients behave the same way. Active retinol and prescription retinoids are the primary concern for PMU prep, while retinyl esters (found in some moisturizers) have significantly lower biological activity and are treated differently in pre-care guidelines. >Read our detailed guide on retinol vs retinyl esters for PMU< to understand the difference.


When to restart:
Wait until the treated area is fully re-epithelialized (approximately 10 days), and only resume after your artist confirms the skin has fully settled.


Chemical Exfoliants (AHA / BHA / PHA)


What they do:


Break down the bonds between dead skin cells to smooth texture and brighten skin.


Why they matter for PMU:


Recently exfoliated skin does not hold pigment evenly. Acids can also sting compromised skin and increase irritation during healing.


When to restart:


Begin on alternate nights at least two weeks after any touch-up. Avoid the pigmented area by at least 1 cm for the first month.


Benzoyl Peroxide & High-Dose Niacinamide


What they do:


Treat acne and inflammation but can cause dryness, irritation, or flushing.


Why they matter for PMU:


Dry or inflamed skin heals more slowly. Niacinamide-induced flushing can increase blood flow and potentially affect pigment stability.


When to restart:


One week post-touch-up, provided no scabbing or irritation remains.


Lash & Brow Growth Serums


What they do:


Use prostaglandin analogues to prolong the hair growth (anagen) phase.


Why they matter for PMU:


Increased blood flow around the brows can lead to more bleeding during PMU, which may dilute or push out pigment.


When to restart:


Four weeks after your final PMU session.


How to Plan Your Skincare Timeline


  • Mark your PMU procedure date on your calendar
  • Count backwards using the ingredient time-outs above
  • Set reminders to pause each product on time
  • Substitute with bland skincare (fragrance-free cleansers, simple moisturizers, broad-spectrum SPF)
  • Bring your full product list to your consultation so your artist can identify hidden actives


Safe Substitutes to Keep Skin Stable


  • Hyaluronic acid serums for hydration
  • Ceramide-rich creams to support the skin barrier
  • Non-nano mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide)
  • Mild soothing ingredients such as panthenol or allantoin
    (Avoid high-percentage vitamin C if your skin is reactive.)


Final Check: Day-Of Appointment


  • Arrive with clean, makeup-free skin — no moisturizer, no SPF
  • Avoid coffee, alcohol, and ibuprofen for 24 hours (they can increase bleeding)
  • For lip PMU, begin antiviral prophylaxis 2–3 days prior if prone to cold sores (per your physician)

Aftercare Snapshot


Once your artist gives the green light (typically 10–14 days post-procedure):

  • Reintroduce one active at a time, every other night
  • Monitor closely for redness or tingling
  • Keep retinoids at least one fingertip away from fresh pigment for the first month to avoid premature fading



Need a personalised plan? Book a free 10-minute consult with our Ellebrow team, and we’ll map out a tailored prep schedule so your PMU results look flawless and stay vibrant.



Always check ingredient decks at purchase—brands reformulate without notice. When in doubt, pause longer and ask your technician or dermatologist.