Microblading & Permanent Makeup Glossary

Welcome to the Ellebrow Permanent Makeup & Microblading Glossary

Ellebrow's comprehensive glossary spans A to Z in permanent makeup terminology, making complex concepts accessible. It includes explanations of popular techniques like "microblading" for detailed eyebrow artistry and "nano brows" for a softer, more precise eyebrow fill. Alongside, it delves into the science behind pigments and skin interactions, aiming to educate both novices and professionals. This guide enriches understanding, blending essential knowledge with engaging examples to navigate the intricate world of permanent cosmetics effectively.

3D Microblading: A method of eyebrow enhancement that uses a manual handheld tool to implant pigment in the form of hair-like strokes into the skin. It creates a 3D illusion of fuller, natural-looking brows. It was initially used to make a distinction between microblading and older styled eyebrow tattoos, and today is mostly synonymous with microblading or used as a marketing term.

Aftercare: This term refers to the steps one needs to follow post-procedure to ensure healthy healing and

optimal results. After a permanent makeup procedure, aftercare can involve applying specific creams or gels, avoiding certain activities like swimming or exposure to the sun, and maintaining overall skin health.

Anesthetic: During a permanent makeup procedure, a topical anesthetic or numbing cream is often applied to the area to minimize discomfort. There are several types of anesthetics, but most contain ingredients like lidocaine.

Aquarelle Lips: A lip tattooing technique that offers a soft, tinted effect, rather than a bold, solid color. It resembles the look of a sheer lip tint or watercolor.

Asymmetry: Asymmetry refers to a lack of identical parts or equivalent features on opposite sides of a body or a structure. In the context of facial features, perfect symmetry is extremely rare. Most people naturally have some degree of asymmetry, whether it's in the size or shape of their eyes, the arch of their brows, or the curve of their lips.

When it comes to permanent makeup, recognizing and addressing this asymmetry is crucial. Skilled PMU artists take these slight asymmetries into account when designing and applying treatments, such as microblading, eyeliner tattooing, or lip blushing. The goal isn't to create perfect symmetry, which can look unnatural, but to enhance and balance the client's unique features, respecting their individuality while bringing harmony to their overall look.

Understanding asymmetry is particularly important in eyebrow procedures. Since eyebrows are one of the most noticeable facial features and play a significant role in facial expression, even slight imbalances can have a profound effect on the overall appearance. PMU artists use specific techniques to subtly correct perceived asymmetries without erasing the uniqueness of the client's face. They aim to achieve an optimal balance – one that highlights natural beauty while acknowledging that perfect symmetry is neither attainable nor desirable.

Blood Thinners

Blood thinners, also known as anticoagulants, are medicines that reduce blood clotting. Common examples include aspirin, warfarin, and certain non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). In permanent makeup procedures such as microblading or microshading, clients who take blood thinners may bleed more easily. This can dilute the inserted pigment, affecting color retention and possibly increasing the risk of bruising. Therefore, clients taking blood thinners, or even certain supplements and over-the-counter medications with blood-thinning effects, should consult with both their healthcare provider and permanent makeup technician before undergoing a procedure.

Bloodborne Pathogens: These are infectious microorganisms found in human blood that can cause disease in humans. In the context of permanent makeup, the risk of transmitting bloodborne pathogens exists due to the invasive nature of the procedures. This includes diseases like Hepatitis B, Hepatitis C, and HIV. It's essential for PMU artists to follow strict hygiene and safety protocols to protect both themselves and their clients from potential infections. 

Body Art: An art form that uses the human body as its canvas. It can include tattoos, body painting, and, yes, even permanent makeup. The artistry involved in permanent makeup procedures sets skilled professionals apart from the rest. It's their understanding of color theory, facial anatomy, and technique that allows for stunning, natural-looking results.

Brow Mapping: See "Eyebrow Mapping".

Cat Eyes: A popular eyeliner style that extends both upward and outward from the corner of the eye, resembling the shape of a cat's eye. Permanent makeup can be used to create this look.

Color Retention: How well the skin retains pigment after a permanent makeup procedure can vary greatly from person to person. Factors such as skin type, lifestyle, and the quality of the pigment used can all impact color retention.

Color Theory: This is a concept within the art and design world that explains how colors interact with one another and how they can be used to create certain emotions or reactions. In the context of permanent makeup, color theory is crucial in selecting the right pigment shades for each individual, taking into account their skin tone, hair color, and personal preferences. Understanding color theory helps to ensure that the results of a procedure, such as microblading or lip blushing, will look natural and harmonious

Correction Work: Procedures done to fix or change permanent makeup work that was previously done. This can involve altering shapes, adjusting colors, or in some cases, removal.

Cosmetic Tattooing: Another term for permanent makeup, since the procedure involves implanting pigment into the skin like a

traditional tattoo.

Defined Hair Strokes

Definition: Defined Hair Strokes is a technique where the needle penetrates the skin to create distinct lines or strokes, often used in Nano Brows and other semi-permanent eyebrow treatments. This method offers a more defined and bold look compared to other techniques.

Usage: "I chose Defined Hair Strokes for a bolder, more dramatic eyebrow look."

Dermal Layer: The layer of skin where the pigment is deposited during a permanent makeup procedure. The dermal layer lies beneath the epidermis, or the outer layer of skin. By reaching this layer, the results of the procedure are able to last significantly longer than traditional makeup.

Dermapigmentation: Also known as dermatography, it's a type of cosmetic tattooing that's used to enhance certain features like eyebrows or to create the illusion of features that are absent or lacking. It's often used interchangeably with terms like micropigmentation, permanent makeup or cosmetic tattooing.

Dermis: The layer of skin below the epidermis, where permanent makeup pigments are implanted.

Dermographism: A condition where the skin raises in response to pressure or trauma. Those with dermographism may experience welting during a permanent makeup procedure.

Eyebrow Embroidery: Another term for microblading, it's a semi-permanent procedure where hair-like strokes of pigment are added to the skin to enhance or create an eyebrow shape.

Eyebrow Tattoo: A type of permanent makeup where pigment is tattooed onto the skin to create or enhance the appearance of eyebrows. Unlike microblading, the results are typically more solid and longer-lasting.

Eyeliner Tattoo: This term is synonymous with permanent eyeliner. It refers to the process of applying a tattoo around the eyes in a line that mimics the effect of traditional eyeliner. This can be done in several styles, from a simple lash enhancement (where pigment is tattooed only into the lash line for a subtle effect) to a more full-bodied and dramatic eyeliner look. The result is designed to be waterproof, smudge-proof, and long-lasting.

Eyebrow Mapping: Eyebrow mapping is an essential step in the microblading process of creating perfect brows, be it through microblading, micropigmentation, or other permanent makeup techniques. It involves using precise measurements and sometimes even mathematical formulas to determine the optimal brow shape, size, and position that best complements an individual's unique facial features. The goal is to create symmetry and balance, ensuring that the eyebrows frame the face perfectly. This process takes into account the client's natural brow bone, eye placement, facial shape, and personal style preference. Brow mapping is critical in achieving the most flattering and natural-looking outcome for each client.

Eyelash Enhancement: This permanent makeup technique involves depositing pigment into the upper and/or lower lash lines to create the illusion of thicker, darker lashes. Feathering: A technique used in permanent makeup where soft, feather-like strokes are created for a natural look.

Fitzpatrick Scale: A numerical classification for skin color that helps determine how different skin types respond to UV light. It's often used in permanent makeup to predict how a particular pigment color will heal and appear on the skin.

Guyliner: A term often used to refer to eyeliner when it's worn by men. It's gained popularity with musicians and actors and is now becoming more mainstream.

Hand Tool: In microblading, a handheld tool with a group of needles is used to create fine, hair-like strokes in the skin. The hand tool allows for precision and control, making it ideal for procedures that require an elevated level of detail.

Hyperpigmentation: An increase in skin color (darkening of the skin) due to an increase in melanin. In the context of permanent makeup, it can occur as a response to inflammation during the healing process.

Hypoallergenic: Refers to substances that are less likely to cause an allergic reaction. Many permanent makeup pigments are formulated to be hypoallergenic.

Icy Lips: A permanent makeup technique for lips that creates a light, frosted look. The pigment is often a lighter, more pastel shade, and the method can make lips appear fuller and more defined.

Implantation: The process of inserting pigment into the skin during a permanent makeup procedure. Precise implantation is key to achieving desired results and preventing complications like scarring or color migration.

Juvederm: A brand of injectable hyaluronic acid dermal filler. It can be used in conjunction with permanent makeup for a more complete facial rejuvenation.

Keloid Scarring: A type of raised scar that occurs where the skin has healed after an injury. In the context of permanent makeup, it's a potential risk for individuals prone to keloids.

Keloid: A type of raised scar that can sometimes form at the site of a tattoo or permanent makeup. People prone to keloids should inform their permanent makeup artist.

Laser Removal: A method used to remove tattoos, including permanent makeup, by breaking up the pigment colors with a high-intensity light beam.

Latex Practice Sheets: Synthetic sheets used by permanent makeup artists to practice their technique. These sheets mimic the texture and resistance of human skin, providing a realistic surface for learning and refining skills.

Lidocaine: A common anesthetic used in topical creams to numb the skin before a permanent makeup procedure.

Lip Blushing: A semi-permanent cosmetic tattooing procedure that enhances the natural color and shape of the lips, giving them a brighter and more defined look. Also know and lip tattoo.

Machine Hairstrokes

Definition: Machine Hairstrokes is a term used to describe the technique of creating hair-like strokes on the eyebrows using a specialized machine. This method is often associated with Nano Brows and offers a more precise and less invasive approach compared to manual methods. Also known as "nano brows".

Usage: "I opted for Machine Hairstrokes to get a more natural and long-lasting eyebrow look."

Machine Work: Permanent makeup procedures that use a machine instead of manual hand tools. This can be used for  techniques like powder brows, eyeliner, or lip blush, or the newer nano brows technique.

Medical Tattooing: Also known as paramedical tattooing or micropigmentation, it's a procedure used to improve appearance after surgical procedures, injury, or to camouflage scars and vitiligo. It can also be used for nipple reconstruction after mastectomy.

Micropigmentation: This is a cosmetic tattooing process where pigment is implanted into the dermis layer of the skin to enhance facial features like eyebrows, lips, and eyeliner. It's often used interchangeably with terms like permanent makeup or cosmetic tattooing.

Microblading: A type of semi-permanent makeup procedure that uses a handheld tool to create hair-like strokes in the eyebrows, giving them a natural, fuller appearance. See our comprehensive guide If you really want to learn what is microblading?

Microshading: This technique uses a stippling method that simulates the appearance of makeup, offering a more filled-in brow look.

Nano Brows

Definition: Nano Brows is a semi-permanent eyebrow technique that uses a specialized machine with ultra-fine needles to create natural-looking hair strokes. This method allows for greater precision and less trauma to the skin compared to other eyebrow techniques.

Usage: "After getting Nano Brows at Ellebrow NYC, my eyebrows look naturally fuller and more defined."

Nano Needles: These are the finest needles used in permanent makeup procedures, even thinner than those

used in microblading. They're typically used with a machine and allow for very precise, delicate work.

Nanoblading

Definition: Nanoblading is a variation of microblading that uses a handheld tool with ultra-fine needles to create precise, natural-looking hair strokes on the eyebrows. It is a manual method that offers a more detailed finish compared to traditional microblading.

Usage: "Nanoblading gave me the natural, feathery brows I've always wanted."

Needle Depth: The depth to which the needle penetrates the skin during a permanent makeup procedure. Correct needle depth

is crucial for optimal color retention and healing. Numbing Cream: Topical anesthetics used before and during the procedure to reduce any discomfort.

Ombre Brows: This permanent makeup technique creates a gradient effect on the eyebrows, with the tails of the brows appearing darker than the fronts. It gives the brows a soft, filled-in look similar to the effect of brow powder or pomade. 

Ombre Powder Brows: A style of permanent makeup for eyebrows that uses a stippling method to create a gradient

effect, with the front of the brow lighter than the tail.

Pain Tolerance: Everyone's level of comfort and tolerance for pain is different. Some clients may find permanent makeup procedures uncomfortable, while others feel only a slight scratch-like sensation. Topical anesthetics are usually used to increase comfort during the procedure.

Permanent Eyeliner: Permanent eyeliner is a form of cosmetic tattooing where pigment is implanted into the skin around the eyes to create the effect of wearing eyeliner. It's a popular permanent makeup technique that can define and enhance the shape and color of the eyes. The result can vary from a soft, natural-looking enhancement to a more defined, dramatic effect depending on the individual's preference.

Permanent Makeup or Makeup Tattooing: This involves tattooing makeup onto the skin, so it doesn't have to be applied daily. This can include procedures like eyeliner, lip color, and eyebrow definition. The effect is typically more subtle and natural-looking than most people's daily makeup.

PhiBrows: A specific technique and brand of microblading that focuses on creating perfectly balanced and symmetrical brows based on the golden ratio ('phi').

Pigment Dilution: The process of diluting the concentration of pigment ink to adjust the color or intensity of the permanent

makeup.

Pigment Migration: A potential risk with permanent makeup where the pigment spreads or diffuses from the original site, blurring the lines or shape.

Pigment: The colored substance that's inserted into the skin during a permanent makeup procedure. Permanent makeup pigments are specifically designed to be safe and long-lasting on the skin.

Pixelated Hair Strokes

Definition: Pixelated Hair Strokes is a technique used in semi-permanent eyebrow treatments like Nano Brows. The method involves the needle grazing the skin to create soft or bold lines, giving the eyebrows a pixelated appearance.

Usage: "The Pixelated Hair Strokes technique gave my brows a soft, natural look."

PMU: Abbreviation for Permanent Makeup.

Powder Brows: This technique creates a soft, powdered look that subtly fills in your brows. It's similar to microshading.

Pre-Drawing: The artist outlines the shape and style of the brows (or eyeliner or lips) before the procedure begins. This gives the client an idea of the final result and allows them to make adjustments as needed.

Q-tip Test: A method used to assess skin undertones. The color of a Q-tip against the skin can help identify warm, cool, or neutral undertones.

Retouch: Also known as a touch-up, this is a follow-up procedure that's typically done a few weeks after the initial permanent makeup application. It allows the artist to fill in any areas where the pigment didn't retain as well and make any adjustments to the color or shape as needed.

Retouching: A part of the permanent makeup process where the original work is refined and perfected. This is often done 4-8 weeks after the initial session.

Saline Removal: A method used for lightening or removing unwanted permanent makeup. It involves implanting a saline solution into the skin which then helps to lift out the pigment. Laser removal is generally a a superior and more effective method removal method.

Sanitation: Keeping a clean and sterile work environment is crucial in permanent makeup to prevent infections. Sanitation procedures include sterilizing tools, changing gloves often, and using clean, fresh pigment for each client.

Scar Camouflage: A procedure that uses micro-pigmentation to implant skin-toned pigment into scar tissue to make it

less noticeable.

Semi-Permanent Makeup: A broad term used to describe cosmetic procedures, like microblading or lip blushing, where pigment is inserted into the skin to enhance natural beauty. Unlike traditional tattooing, the results are designed to fade over time, hence the term "semi-permanent." Also referred to as Permanent Makeup.

Shading: A technique used in permanent makeup to create a fuller, denser appearance. In the context of brows, shading (as in ombre or powder brows) offers a more filled-in look compared to the hair-like strokes of microblading.

Sterilization: This is the process of eliminating, removing, or killing all forms of life and other biological agents like fungi, bacteria, viruses, spore forms, etc., present on a surface, contained in a fluid, or in a compound such as biological culture media. In the world of permanent makeup, sterilization of equipment is crucial to prevent infections and cross-contamination. This process is typically carried out using heat, chemicals, irradiation, high pressure, or filtration.

Stippling or Stippling Method: The stippling method refers to a technique used in permanent makeup applications, particularly in tattooing and microblading, where small dots or points are created to build up color, shading, or texture. This dotting technique can be used to produce natural-looking gradients, enhance the depth or fullness of specific areas, or create a soft, diffused look in makeup designs.

Application in PMU:

In the realm of permanent makeup, the stippling method is often employed to create a subtle shading effect, especially for procedures like eyebrow microblading, where artists may want to recreate the illusion of natural brow hairs and transitions between sparse and denser areas. By using stippling, a PMU artist can give a more dimensional and natural appearance to the brows, lips, or other areas of focus.

Benefits:

1. Offers a more natural look by creating subtle variations in depth and color.
2. Allows for more precise control of shading and gradient effects.
3. Reduces the risk of over-saturating an area with pigment.

Considerations:

When opting for a PMU procedure that employs the stippling method, it's essential to ensure the artist has specific experience with this technique to achieve optimal, natural-looking results.

Strokes: In microblading, strokes refer to the individual hair-like lines made with the handheld tool. The goal is to mimic the appearance of natural brow hairs for a result that's as realistic as possible.

Symmetry: An important aspect of all cosmetic procedures, including permanent makeup. Ensuring symmetry, particularly with procedures like microblading, can enhance the natural beauty of the face. See also asymmetry.

Topical Anesthetic: A type of numbing cream or gel that's applied to the skin before a permanent makeup procedure. It helps to minimize discomfort and make the procedure more comfortable for the client.

Touch-up: A session done typically 4-8 weeks after the initial procedure to refine and perfect the results. It's a chance to add more pigment, adjust the shape or color, and fill in any areas that didn't retain the pigment as well.

Underlying Pigment: The natural color of a client's skin, which can influence the final outcome of a pigment. It is important to consider underlying pigments, as certain tones can shift the healed color.

Vasodilator: A substance that dilates blood vessels, increasing blood flow. Certain vasodilators may be contraindicated in permanent makeup due to potential bleeding. Some common examples of vasodilators include:

• Nitroglycerin: Often used to treat angina (chest pain caused by reduced blood flow to the heart).
• Hydralazine: Commonly used to treat high blood pressure.
• Sodium Nitroprusside: Often used in critical care settings to treat severe high blood pressure or heart failure.
• Minoxidil: Not only used to treat high blood pressure but also a popular over-the-counter product for hair loss.
• Sildenafil (Viagra) and Tadalafil (Cialis): Known for their use in treating erectile dysfunction, these drugs work by dilating blood vessels.

Please note that the use of these medications could have implications for certain treatments such as permanent makeup procedures, due to their effect on blood flow. Always consult with your healthcare provider and service provider if you are on these medications.

Whip Shading: A shading technique used in tattooing and permanent makeup that involves creating a sweeping movement with the needle to create a soft, diffused line.

Winged Eyeliner: A style of eyeliner where the line extends beyond the corner of the eye, giving a 'winged' effect. This technique can be done using permanent makeup.

Xanthophobia: Fear of the color yellow. Relevant in the sense that some clients may have specific color fears or aversions that need to be considered during the consultation process.

Yttrium: One of the elements used in certain pigments. While generally safe, some individuals may have sensitivities or reactions to specific ingredients in pigments.

Zirconium: Another element that can be found in some pigments, used for its bright white color and opacity.